Yet Another Casting Topic: What Lube-Sizer Do You Use?

BarryinIN

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When I started casting, I was surprised how much time it took. I expected the casting part to be slow, but had not known the lubing and sizing operation would make that seem fast. Having spent a fair amount of time with the two or three basic types of lube-sizers, I have developed some opinions.

I’m going to give my opinions, along with descriptions of the different styles for anyone getting started in casting. Basically, the info I didn’t have or readily find.

I break lube-sizers into two methods of operation. There are what I call the in-and-out type of Lyman, RCBS, and Saeco. And there are the push-through like the Star and
Magna.
I further split the in-and-outs into Lyman/RCBS and the Saeco.

I first bought an old Lyman model 45. This was replaced by the 450, then the current 4500. A stronger handle is the main change. The RCBS tool is very similar, and the two brands can even use each others sizing dies and top punches.
The bullet gets centered on the sizing die, pushed base-first down into the die by lowering the handle, then pushed back out by raising the handle. The lube reservoir is pressurized by cranking down on a screw in its top. This lube squirts into the bullet’s lube grooves as the grooves pass by a series of holes in the sizing die.
Because the lube can exit the holes in the die at any time, the center piece has to be in place to block these holes until the bullet passes over them. It is also what pushes the bullet back up.

The Saeco differs in its handle orientation, and by how the size die and top punches install. The top punch screws into the Saeco, and the die gets pressed in then a collar screwed onto the bottom. In the Lyman and RCBS, the die and top punch get pressed into place and then secured by a set screw.
The Saeco way is more secure, but I can attest that when that area gets bullet lube all over the threads, they get hard to turn.

The Star is now sold by Magna. With the Star type, the sizing die is open all the way through. You drop a bullet into the die (it is tapered wider at the top so you can in fact drop it in) and lower the handle. The bullet passes through the sizing die, then at the bottom of this stroke the handle bumps a valve releasing the lube. Since the lube only comes out at this one point, you have to adjust that depth so the lube grooves line up with the holes for the lube. The top punch that pushes against the bullet gets screwed in or out to set this.
The next bullet to be sized pushes the previous bullet out and into a container.

With the Star, sometimes it works better to drop the bullets in nose-first and sometimes base-first. Location of the lube grooves on the bullet design might determine this. If you are seating gas checks while sizing, base-first is better.

The Star is by far faster. You drop a bullet in and work the handle. Drop and pull, drop and pull, and keep the lube pressurized by cranking its lever down now and then. You can get bullet feeders to keep a stack of bullets feeding in so you can just work the handle between bullet refills.

But the Lyman/RCBS/Saeco are faster to setup. Getting the depth set correctly on the Star is a fiddly process. You can measure and record the setting once you have it, but I never seem to do that.
If doing maybe 50 bullets or less, it’s easier to skip the Star.

The dies and top punches are cheapest for the Lyman/RCBS and cheaper yet if you buy off eBay. The Saeco ones cost a little more. And they are a little more expensive on the Star.

So what do I prefer?

I use my Star most, and my Saeco less but I do use it. I rarely use my Lyman, but the reason I use the Saeco over it is because the handle arrangement works better with my bench.

The thought of having to do several hundred bullets through the Saeco or Lyman is depressing.
But then, if I’m processing a few dozen each of several different bullets, and that happens, the thought of all that adjusting on the Star with each bullet change isn’t appealing either.

If I just have to seat gas checks, I’d say the Lyman/RCBS/Saeco is a little easier but not much.

If I had to have just one, I’d take the Star.
 
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You can spend a lot of money buying size and lube equipment. A reason I think a lot of loaders would rather buy their bullets ready to load. You have to shoot a lot to pay for the initial investment in equipment. If you are only an occasional shooter you will want to make sure you really enjoy your new hobby to warrant the expense.

It doesn’t have to be that way. There are lower budget methods out there. You can throw a handful of bullets in a ziplock bag and squish it around a lube like Liquid-Alox. It functions fine, I have shot a lot of them. It’s a mess to work with and not the prettiest end product, but the target doesn’t know the difference.

You can always buy a mold that casts the correct size for the particular bore you are using them in. Lee also has a fairly inexpensive sizing system: the push in the bottom and out the top type. It will also seat gas checks. It uses your reloading press, somewhat the same approach as a reloading die. You’ll need one for every caliber you intend to work with. It gives you the option of expanding one caliber at a time without as much of an initial investment. I started out this way.

There is also a lot of used equipment out there. You’ll have to be a patient bargain shopper. Some guys will try to charge more than a new price. I’ve had good luck at yard sales and flea markets. I use an old set of early lubri-sizers. State of the art early last century, they are still compatible with newer systems.
 
Pretty simple for me...
For normal my cast (Mostly Lee molds) go through my RCBS LuberSizer=Most size dies are 9MM. .38/357. .45acp., .45Colt. These are the ones that do not get paint.

For the ones that I PC, I just paint right out of the molds.

For final size after Powder Coat paint, I have a Lyman sizer press set up for pass-through size after the PC is applied=NO Lube..

I have a pretty good of stock from over the years of casting, that I have not used the bullet sizers much lately..Bill.
 
After a "Few" years of Powder Coating, I have found that I can drive most projectiles to Plated or above speeds with COMPLETE Success.
I do not cast/paint many rifle caliber bullets, but my handgun projectiles do well..Bill.
 
Yeah, you can go over to CastBoolets.com and get all the info that you need.

For my Glocks in 9MM, .357Sig .40 S&W, 10MM, and .45acp. the painted projectiles do well.

I'm sure it can be done, but I have not "Driven" my PC coated bullets fast enough to get lead, in the Glock or Aftermarket barrels.

I have ran most of them up to JHP speeds too..Bill
 
One of the main differences with PC sizing is that I run the painted projectile completely through the sizer and out the bottom of the size die. Of course, I use the proper top punch to push them down through the size die.

I have a custom made "Chute" that guides the bullet out of the bottom of the size die into a length of 1" clear plastic tubing down to a coffee can on the floor.

It took awhile to " Engineer " this system out, but it works for me. Not the Fastest around, but it produces a good bullet, that I can drive fast (without leading) , that looks good too.

My Farmer Buddies around here (They provide my "Back 40" range), REALLY like the John Deere Green + Yellow BEST.
They say that the JD colors just shoot better???HA.HA...Bill.
 
Pretty simple for me...
For normal my cast (Mostly Lee molds) go through my RCBS LuberSizer=Most size dies are 9MM. .38/357. .45acp., .45Colt. These are the ones that do not get paint.

For the ones that I PC, I just paint right out of the molds.

For final size after Powder Coat paint, I have a Lyman sizer press set up for pass-through size after the PC is applied=NO Lube..

I have a pretty good of stock from over the years of casting, that I have not used the bullet sizers much lately..Bill.
I didn’t know PC bullets got sized after coating. I guess I didn’t know when it was done. I’ve never PCd
 

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